Nobody Knows Anything

Welcome to Diane Patterson's eclectic blog about what strikes her fancy

Sunday night dinner

Posted on February 14, 2005 Written by Diane

I really have got to remember to put my camera on the kitchen island when making a big dinner. I totally forgot to take any pictures last night.

Last night I made a dinner that was very yummy but not particularly well-balanced in terms of flavors. I made

  • Stuffed Pork Tenderloin from Amuse Bouche’s recipe (mine kind of looked like that, so just imagine that’s mine)
  • Alsatian Onion Tart: puffed pastry, onion, and bacon, from Baking With Julia
  • Squash: most embarrassing, I can’t remember which type of squash it was, other than “not very tasty”
  • Strawberry Shortcake, from the recipe in How To Be A Domestic Goddess

The whole dinner went over well. The stuffed pork tenderloin came out very juicy and flavorful; the kids ate some, which was more than they’ve eaten of most entrees. The onion tart was flaky and sweet—this would make an excellent appetizer, preferably with a dish that wasn’t already heavy with onions and bacon! And the strawberry shortcake: Who cares that this is totally the wrong season for strawberries! (Have markets always been full of strawberries at Valentine’s Day?) Add some sugar, some whipped cream, and voila! Life is really good.

Alsatian Onion Tart
About 1/2 pound puff pastry scraps, chilled
4 very large onions, peeled and diced
1 cup chicken broth (homemade or canned low-sodium)
3 tablespoons heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 pound slab bacon

Preparing the Pastry

Roll out the puff pastry on a lightly floured work surface until it is very thin, 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick. Using the lid of a pot as a guide, cut the pastry with a very sharp knife into a circle 10 to 12 inches across. Transfer the rolled-out pastry to an ungreased baking sheet and price the dough all over, using either a docker or the tines of a fork. Go overboard with this—try arming yourself with a fork in each hand and playing out a lively tattoo on the dough—the docking, or pricking, will keep the pastry from puffing, just what you want for this tart. Cover the pastry with plastic wrap and refrigerate until needed. You can prepare the pastry up to 1 day ahead.

Making the Topping

Put the diced onions and the chicken broth in a medium saucepan over low heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are very soft, about 30 minutes. Drain, discarding any liquid, and let the onions cool. When the onions have cooled, stir in the heavy cream and season with salt and pepper. (Keep tasting—you may want to go easy on the salt because of the bacon.)

Remove the rind from the bacon and cut the bacon into 1/4-inch cubes. Drop the cubes into a large pot of boiling water and boil for 1 minute, just to blanch them. Drain and rinse under cold water, then pat dry with paper towels.

Heat a medium skillet over moderately high heat, toss in the bacon pieces, and cook, stirring, for just a minute or two—you don’t want to overcook these, or they’ll turn tough; season with pepper. Remove the bacon from the pan and drain well on paper towels. At this point, the topping can be covered and refrigerated for 1 day.

Assembling and Baking

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350F.

Remove the pastry round from the refrigerator and top with the cooled onions, spreading the onions all the way to the edge of the pastry. Scatter the bacon pieces over the onions, pushing them down into the onions just a little (this will not only protect the bacon from burning, it will flavor the onions). Bake the tart for about 30 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve immediately.

Storing

Both the pastry and the topping can be made ahead, but the tart is at its best just baked.

Contributing Baker Michel Richard

§

Strawberry Shortcake

For the shortcakes:
2 cups plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon baking powder
5 tablespoons sugar
1/2 cup unsalted butter, frozen
1 large egg, beaten
1/2 cup light cream
1 large egg white, slightly beaten
1 baking sheet, greased or lined with parchment or wax paper
2 1/2 inch round cutter

For the filling:
approximately 11 oz. strawberries
1 tablespoon sugar
few drops balsamic vinegar (optional)
1 cup heavy cream, whipped or creme fraiche

Preheat the oven to 425F.

Mix the flour, salt, baking powder, and 3 tablespoons of the sugar in a bowl. Grate the butter into these dry ingredients and use your fingertips to finish crumbling the butter into the flour. Whisk the egg into the cream, and pour into the flour mixture a little at a time, using a fork to mix. You may not need all of the eggy cream to make the dough come together, so go cautiously.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, and roll gently to a thickness of about 3/4 inch. Dip the cutter in flour and cut out as many rounds as you can. Work the scraps back into a dough, re-roll and finish cutting out—you should get 8 in all. Place the shortcakes about 1 inch apart on the baking sheet, brush the tops with the egg white, and sprinkle them with the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar. If it helps with the rest of your cooking, or life in general, you can cover and refrigerate them now for up to 2 hours.

Bake for 10-15 minutes, until golden brown, and let them cool for a short while on a wire rack. Meanwhile, crush half the strawberries with the spoonful of sugar and the few drops of balsamic vinegar if using, and halve or quarter the remaining strawberries, depending on their size. Whip the heavy cream, if you’re using.

The shortcakes should be eaten while still warm, so split each one across the middle and cover with a spoonful fo the crushed strawberry mixture, a few halved or quartered strawberries, then dollop some whipped cream or creme fraiche on top, and set the top back on.

Makes 8.

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Filed Under: Cooking and Food

Hotel Rwanda: the review

Posted on February 10, 2005 Written by Diane

I have cried at two movies in my life. This is one. Just so you know I’m not an easy touch.

In April 1994 the nation of Rwanda descended into madness, wherein half of the population decided to murder the other half. In July 1994 rebel forces managed to defeat the current regime and put an end to the slaughter. In those three to four months somewhere between eight hundred thousand and one million Rwandans (out of a population, near as I can determine from Googling, of about ten million) were murdered. Mostly by machetes. I remember hearing the news reports every day and thinking, This is exaggeration. It has to be exaggeration; whenever you hear about horrible stuff happening overseas, it’s always exaggerated, right?

We didn’t hear or—more importantly for Western sensibilities—see the half of it.

Apparently people who lived there didn’t believe it was going to be that bad either. Paul Rusesabagina, the general manager of a Belgian-airline-owned luxury hotel resort in Kigali, is a man of the world: He’s smooth and efficient, he knows everyone, and he knows how to keep everyone’s back scratched. He gets cartons of Cuban cigars to pass out as grease to businessmen, he keeps scotch on hand for the generals who hang out in his hotel, he keeps a stack of cash on hand to tuck into pockets everywhere to get things done. And he thinks the increasing fear of the Hutu militias is just foolish. Nothing’s going to happen.

He is, of course, very, very wrong.

Rusesabagina was in a position to do something, however: he turned the Hotel des Mille Collines into an impromptu refugee camp, sheltering 1200 Hutus and Tutsis from the insanity outside, mostly by not only sheer force of will and luck, but because of the relationships—and favors—he had built up over the years. At last, at long last, due to Rusesabagina’s relentless working of relationships and directing his “guests” how to do likewise, the refugees are among the lucky ones: they get sprung. They get to become refugees across the border in Tanzania.

Hotel Rwanda manages to pull off the impossible: demonstrating the horror of what was going on with a PG-13 rating. Which means you don’t see the massacres going on (except in one scene, where you see something, off in the distance, on a video monitor). Pretty much everything is implied; the horror is left to you. Believe me, you’ll do quite well on your own. A casual comment like, “Tutsi whores are all witches,” illustrates a world of what’s happened that depicting on screen would simply be pornographic titillation.

The movie is not unrelenting grimness: the depiction of Paul’s relationships, with his family, with his staff, with the UN commander, and with the armies wreaking havoc on his country are beautiful. In the middle of the horror there is a funny love scene between Paul and his wife, in which he confesses that his ability to grease the system extended to her. Don Cheadle is fabulous here: I’d definitely vote for him as Best Actor. He juggles fury, determination, and a calm demeanor beautifully. You understand his frustration when he realizes his whole existence as a slick intermediary for the Belgians means nothing; at the same time, his abilities are what kept a small pocket people alive for months. It’s really bravura stuff, much more impressive than some of the other nominated performances I’ve seen.

I thought the movie did a wonderful job of shorthanding what led up to the Rwandan massacres: the ethnic division between Hutu and Tutsis, which was the legacy of the Belgian colonists; the involvement of the Western powers not only not stopping the massacres but in keeping them going; the easy way that propaganda can incite people to do horrific things.

One element is hinted at but never spelled out for the viewer, though: the reason the word “genocide” was never used by the Western powers. Because according to the UN charter, if there is genocide, UN signatories are obligated to intervene.

I didn’t particularly want to see this movie: you know, genocide. But since it came down to this versus Million Dollar Baby, we went to this one. I’m sorry I waited so long. I highly recommend it.

§

Good thing we’ll never see anything like the Rwanda genocide again.

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Filed Under: Movies

Hot chocolate talk 3

Posted on February 10, 2005 Written by Diane

The LA Times has a story entitled “A bittersweet love affair,” in which the author goes on a search for authentic grown-up’s hot chocolate (crap! you mean I could be writing actual paying articles on these obsessions of mine?). She includes three hot chocolate recipes, one for the Spanish Chocolate a la taza, one for French-style hot chocolate, and one for regular hot cocoa. The third recipe actually contained two recipes, which I have lovingly split apart for you. Also, check out the nutritional info on these puppies: these are desserts, okay? Of course, if you use high-quality chocolate, you won’t need more than a bit of one of these to satisfy you.

Spanish hot chocolate (chocolate a la taza)

Total time: 20 minutes
Servings: 4 to 5

Note: Adapted from Janet Mendel’s “My Kitchen in Spain.” Use a high-quality chocolate bar such as Scharffen Berger semisweet, 62% cacao.

3 cups water, divided
3 tablespoons cornstarch
8 ounces semisweet chocolate chips or semisweet chocolate bars broken into 1/4 -inch pieces
2 cups milk
1/4 cup sugar, or more to taste
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. In a small bowl, mix 1 cup of water with the cornstarch. Set aside.

2. Pour the remaining 2 cups of water into a medium saucepan. Add the chocolate, and cook over medium-high heat, stirring until the chocolate is melted and smooth.

3. Mix in the milk and sugar. Give the cornstarch mixture a quick stir and add it to the saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, or until the mixture begins to coat the back of a spoon, about 5 to 8 minutes. (The hot chocolate will continue to thicken even after cooking to the desired pudding-like consistency.)

4. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla. Add more sugar if desired. Serve immediately.

Each serving: 418 calories; 6 grams protein; 59 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 21 grams fat; 12 grams saturated fat; 12 mg. cholesterol; 56 mg. sodium.

Parisian-style hot chocolate

Total time: 15 minutes
Servings: 4

Note: Adapted from “Paris Sweets” by Dorie Greenspan. Greenspan calls for bittersweet chocolate, but it’s also delicious made with a dark chocolate such as Valrhona Le Noir 61% cacao. If not you’re not serving it immediately, refrigerate for up to 2 days in a covered container, then heat, blend and serve.

3 cups milk
1/3 cup water
1/3 cup sugar
6 ounces bittersweet or dark chocolate, finely chopped

1. Place the milk, water and sugar in a medium saucepan. Over medium-high heat, bring the mixture to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat, add the chocolate and whisk until the chocolate is melted.

2. Using an immersion blender, whip the hot chocolate in the saucepan for 1 minute. If you don’t have an immersion blender, pour half the mixture into a blender, cover, then cover the top of the blender with a towel, holding down the lid, and whip on high speed for 1 minute. Repeat with the remaining chocolate mixture. Serve immediately. Makes about 4 cups.

Each serving: 412 calories; 9 grams protein; 49 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 21 grams fat; 3 grams saturated fat; 18 mg. cholesterol; 73 mg. sodium.

Hot cocoa (milk chocolate)

Total time: 10 minutes
Servings: 4

1/4 cup premium or Dutch-process cocoa powder
1/4 cup sugar
Dash of salt
1/2 cup hot water
2 1/2 cups milk
3/4 cup half-and-half
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract, optional

1. In a medium saucepan, mix the cocoa powder, sugar, salt and water. Stir over medium-high heat, dissolving any lumps. Bring to a boil, then immediately lower the heat and simmer for 1 minute, stirring constantly.

2. Stir in the milk and half-and-half, and continue to cook until just heated through. Remove from the heat and add vanilla, if using. Serve immediately.

Each serving milk-chocolate version: 211 calories; 7 grams protein; 24 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 11 grams fat; 11 grams saturated fat; 32 mg. cholesterol; 119 mg. sodium.

Hot cocoa (dark chocolate)

Total time: 10 minutes
Servings: 4

1/2 cup premium or Dutch-process cocoa powder
1/3 cup sugar
Dash of salt
1 cup hot water
2 1/4 cups milk
1/2 cup half-and-half
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract, optional

1. In a medium saucepan, mix the cocoa powder, sugar, salt and water. Stir over medium-high heat, dissolving any lumps. Bring to a boil, then immediately lower the heat and simmer for 1 minute, stirring constantly.

2. Stir in the milk and half-and-half, and continue to cook until just heated through. Remove from the heat and add vanilla, if using. Serve immediately.

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Filed Under: Cooking and Food

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